5:00pm, Thu 29 Apr 2004 :  New Zealand #2
Hi all,

After weeks on the road, my brain is starting to think in sentences  like the
Lonely Planet guide. Those of you that have used it may recognise it in my
email...

---
Number 2.

NZ Cars: No two cars on NZ roads are the same. This is because most of the
vehicles here turn up as second hand unwanted cars from Japanese roads...
And given the range of vehicle sold in japan, every one bought here is distinctly
different - like cabbage patch children, it would seem. The import car business
which is so small in Australia is huge here.

The result is cars that are running on illegal undersize spare tyres, japanese
decals and worst of all japanese printing on the fuse box. No, actually the
worst part is the japanese radios only tune 1/2 the FM radio band!! :-(

So my (japanese import ) subaru shortly got the hi fi upgrade with a dodgy cd /
radio. I have since been accused of "champagne backpacking" by several,
including the hostel owner who watched me tear my dash apart, curse the
japanese fuse box and install my new cd player.... :-)

NZ highways.
The most unique feature of these is that 100 signs are placed just before 40
km/h  turns, stop signs, roadworks, and 1 lane bridges. It certainly keeps you
awake - and somewhat startling for people used to setting the cruise control on
110 and not doing much else for 3 hours!!

The rush south.
Everyone, absolutely everyone says that the south island is the best, thus
travellers are either in a rush to get there, or have spent most of their time
down there and are now coming back. Meanwhile, there are some beautiful
places in the north island including the Coromandel penisula and the East cape,
which I have just visited.

Coromandel.
This much loved place just 1 hour east of Auckland features picturesque water
front driving, pretty towns and a dirt road to the very top and fletchers bay,
backpackers - frequented by no one. The beaches are typically black sand
though, not to flavour for Aussie's bought up on golden sun bleached silica
sand.

Coromandel is chock full of interesting things though, excentrics builiding
railways up the side of mountains, lovely harbours perfect for 30 foot multihulls,
friendly locals 1 or 2 saved Kauri trees, unmarked goldmine shafts, and other
such treasures!!

Be sure to pick good  weather though, a rain dumping cold front, backed by a
sub tropical low (cyclone) can make the place look grey and spoil the view from
the top of a excentrics mountainside railway...

Rotarua
Roto vegas to locals. This place has motels, tourists, mud and every other
adventure sport activity known to man in the one place. Struggle to escape
after 2 days.

East Cape.
This place is beautiful. Off the tourist track, you start at fuck-a-tarn-ee (I can't
remember the correct spelling, so I used the phonetic). Do the White island
volcanic island tour. Travelling out on a 40 foot kelva-cat (yep, aussie made)
with kiwi host, but former Brissy resident Grant with 12 other punters, stopping
for oh -ahh dolphins (haven't you seen them before?) who play around the
boat. They were much more entertaining then the snobby variety that we seem
to have back home.

The island is basically a boiling crater of sulphur vents and a nasty lake of 60
degrees and p h of 1.2. Unfortunately, no swimming.

Stay at Loydes Lodge for a Mouri welcome that goes for a good 1/2 hour with
host Hare, perhaps having been a busker kidnapped at birth and set down the
course of hostel ownership. Beware if you take on the role of visiting chief of
the people present (backpackers) as after making a bit of "thank you for your
welcome" speech you are obliged to sing a 'thank you for the welcome" song....
( how come I can't even remember all the words to waltzing matilda - can
someone send them to me !! )

Beware that the depature from Loydes Lodges has a lengthy ceremony as
well, but the place and the people are so very nice.

Travel 1/2 way around the East Cape to arrive at Mel's place... probably being
the only one in the hut which is mainly for people going on fishing charters. Mel
and Jo are the current guardians of the land they live on - a strip of ocean front
behind a small rock headland with white(-ish) sand on either side. At the very
front door is a small rock headland with rock pool behind enhanced by some
carefully arranged bolders that create a cascade when the waves break on it.
Watch for hours with a beer or two

Go out to the East cape lighthouse, which is the first place to great the sun in
the world and find a busted, grass overgrown car to sit on and stare out to sea
with some red wine.

If the weather is perfect, it will alll seem so much better. Watch out that you
may end up back at Mel's place for another night, including free fish from the
days' fishing charter.... 23 miles out and 100 feet down. There are a couple
more people this night to talk with. So many older people (guys, older couples)
travelling here.

Race south, passing through Gisborne and ending up in a very ramshackle farm
house on the hill side, and worry about the depletion of clean underwear
stocks and the manual washing machine at this hostel.

Further south and arrive in the art deco city of Napier... Walking tour departs at
2pm - better go!!


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At least it's not for me
And if the wind is right you can sail away
And find tranquility
The canvas can do miracles
Just you wait and see
Believe me

It's not far to never never land
No reason to pretend
And if the wind is right you can find the joy
Of innocence again
The canvas can do miracles
Just you wait and see
Believe me

Sailing
Takes me away
To where I've always heard it could be
Just a dream and the wind to carry me
And soon I will be free

Fantasy
It gets the best of me
When I'm sailing
All caught up in the reverie
Every word is a symphony
Won't you believe me

It's not far back to sanity
At least it's not for me
And when the wind is right you can sail away
And find serenity
The canvas can do miracles
Just you wait and see
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